Contents
If you’ve got water on your floor right now, you’re probably wondering how long your house is going to be torn up. Here’s the honest answer: most of our water damage dry-outs take 3 to 4 days.
That’s if the drying starts fast. The longer water sits, the more it soaks into your drywall, cabinets, and the slab underneath, and the longer (and more expensive) the job gets.
Here’s exactly what happens on one of our jobs, day by day, so you know what to expect.
Before day 1: the first visit
On most jobs, the first person you’ll meet is Ryan, our owner. He walks the property with you and explains what’s going on.
We start by documenting everything and figuring out what’s wet and how wet it is. Thermal imaging cameras show us where the water went, even behind walls, and moisture meters tell us how much water is in the materials. We find out:
- Where the water came from
- How clean it is (the category)
- How much got wet (the class)
- Whether it’s still leaking or already fixed
If it’s still leaking, we stop it first. For a plumbing leak, we shut the water off at the main and help you find a trusted local plumber. For a roof leak, we get buckets under the drips, start pulling up water, and help you find a roofer who can patch it fast.
Then we work out how much equipment the job needs and give you an estimate, so you know roughly what it’ll cost. Nothing starts until you sign off.
Day 1: Get the water out and the drying started
Once you give us the go-ahead, we get right to it:
- Extract all the standing water
- Pull wet carpet pad and baseboards
- Help move your belongings to a dry part of the house
- Drill small holes into the bottom of the wall, behind where the baseboard sits, to get dry air inside the wall cavity
- HEPA vacuum the drilling dust and treat with an antimicrobial to stop bacteria from growing
Then we set the drying equipment. On a typical job, that’s one air mover per wall up to 12 feet (about 4 to 5 in a bedroom), a dehumidifier, and HEPA air filtration. We run air filtration even on clean water jobs, to protect you and your family.
By the end of day one, the standing water is gone and drying is underway.
Day 2: Check and adjust
We come back with moisture meters and take readings across every wet area. Walls don’t dry evenly, so we add, remove, or move equipment wherever one spot is lagging behind the rest.
Day 3: The most important day
This is the day to be meticulous. We check every inch of every wall.
If everything is dry, we record final readings and pull the equipment. If an area isn’t drying, we act now: more equipment, cutting out drywall, or pulling cabinets. By this point, it can’t be treated as a clean water loss anymore.
Day 4: Normally our last day
Day four is normally the last day, which is why we take every step we need to on day three. Any material that’s still wet by day four gets treated as black water (contaminated) and has to come out. That’s why getting the drying started fast matters so much.
How we know it’s actually dry
On every job, we find a wall in your house that the water never touched and take a “dry standard” reading. That’s our baseline, the number we’re drying the rest of the house back to. We’re not chasing a made-up number. We’re matching your own home.
Ask any company you’re considering how they’ll know your home is dry. It’s a good way to separate the pros from everyone else.
What can slow a dry-out down
Some spots are just harder to dry, and they’re where we look the closest:
- Wall end caps, where air can’t get behind the drywall
- The bottom of the wall, which sits right on the concrete slab
- Behind door jambs and trim, if they weren’t pulled with the baseboards
- Cabinets and vanities, which are usually particle board that soaks water up and won’t let it go
A few other things can stretch the timeline:
- Dirty water. Gray water (like a washing machine overflow) and black water (sewage or storm water) mean cutting out the bottom 2 or 4 feet of drywall instead of drying it in place.
- Water under tile or LVP. The floor may have to come up so the slab underneath can dry.
- Waiting. Water that sits for days soaks deeper, and mold can start growing within 24 to 48 hours.
- Opening the windows. It feels like fresh air should help, but Florida’s outside humidity usually runs 60 to 80%. Keep the house closed up and let your AC run. It pulls moisture out of the air better than outside air ever will.
Can you stay home during the dry-out?
Yes, as long as you can get away from the affected area. If it’s the whole house, we wouldn’t recommend it.
Fair warning: the equipment isn’t quiet. Our dehumidifiers sound about like a window AC unit, and the air movers put out a steady blowing noise. The dehumidifiers also put out heat, anywhere from 75 to 95 degrees. On a typical job, most customers only see their electric bill go up about $15 to $20.
If your house still smells, it isn’t fully dry. That musty smell is bacteria growing in wet materials. Once everything’s dry, the smell should be gone.
After the equipment comes out
Once your home is dry, you’ll usually have an area with no baseboards and small holes in the drywall, and no idea what comes next. That’s where our trusted referrals come in. We’ll connect you with drywall and finish carpentry contractors we trust to put everything back and make your house a home again.
You’ll also get a full water package from us: moisture readings from every visit, all our photos and documentation, the estimate, and the invoice. If you’re filing an insurance claim, that package is what backs it up.
Quick answers
How long does it take to dry out a house after a leak? Most dry-outs take 3 to 4 days once the drying equipment is set.
Can I turn the equipment off at night? It’s your home, so you can, but it’ll take longer to dry. We’d rather you didn’t.
What should I keep my thermostat at? If you’re staying home, whatever keeps you comfortable. If you’re not, 78 to 80 degrees helps our dehumidifiers pull moisture faster.
Why does day 4 matter so much? Anything still wet by then gets treated as contaminated and has to come out, which means more tear-out and more cost.
Why Brevard homeowners call us
We’re a small-town company, and we’re proud of our Brevard roots. We treat our customers like family, not like a number, and we take care of every home like it’s our own. We’ve never worked for an insurance company. On a claim, we work for you, the homeowner. We aim to do it right the first time, so you shouldn’t need to call us back unless something new happens.
Got water where it shouldn’t be? Call Affordable Water and Mold Removal at (321) 890-2512 for a free moisture evaluation. We serve all of Brevard County, from Mims to Palm Bay and the beaches.
About the author: Ryan Townsend grew up in Port St. John and has spent 15+ years in the restoration field, starting in his early twenties as a helper for a Brevard County restoration company. He worked his way up from technician to lead tech, supervisor, and management, then opened Affordable Water and Mold Removal in March 2018. He has been IICRC certified for 10+ years and holds the WRT (water damage restoration) and AMRT (mold remediation) certifications, plus Florida mold remediator license MRSR3317.
Recent Posts
How Much Does Water Damage Restoration Cost in Brevard County?
What a dry-out really costs in Brevard: real price ranges from a local restoration owner, what pushes the price up, and how insurance fits in.
What to Do Right After Water Damage (and the Mistakes That Make It Worse)
Water on the floor? Here’s what to do first, the mistakes that make it worse, and why Florida homeowners shouldn’t open the windows.
Cladosporium Mold: What Florida Homeowners Need to Know
Cladosporium is the most common mold in Brevard County homes. Learn where it grows, whether it is dangerous, when you can clean it yourself, and how licensed remediation works.